"I heard rumors that the main
parts of the Salisbury differential and the Dana 44 interchanged....
The problem I was having was finding specific info on the subject such
as part numbers or the exact changes that needed to made."
And
finally an update to this web page:
Page IV of my
Jaguar IRS project has
been a long time coming. Over the last year, I had to put the
project on hold as I had another car that needed my attention, but now
that car is basically finished and I have been able to get back to the
Jaguar IRS install. I hope that subsequent pages in this
series
will not take as long to be published as I know there are many people
interested to see how the story ends.
The
best kept secret in the Jaguar community:
As
stated before
in this series of
articles, the Jaguar differential is not a Dana 44; it is actually
Spicer’s earlier design for this type of differential and is
called a
Salisbury differential. During my initial research of the
Jaguar
IRS unit, I heard rumors that the main parts of the Salisbury
differential and the Dana 44 interchanged with some minor
modifications. The problem I was having was finding specific
info
on the subject such as part numbers or the exact changes that needed to
made. I spent quite a bit of time on Jag
Lovers Forum
researching
differential rebuilds and requesting information on the Salisbury
differential and its similarities and differences to the Dana
44.
Over the course of searching, I did learn that Jaguar owners are some
of the most loyal and passionate car enthusiasts I have ever met and I
respect their intense love of their cars. For many, with that
loyalty comes a natural desire to replace parts in their cars with only
Jaguar specific parts and because of that, alternative part options are
not always known by many members in the Jaguar community. After several
helpful posts suggesting that I use Jaguar/Salisbury gear sets and
carriers, which are available but can be expensive (especially for a
limited slip differential), one of the forum members finally gave me
this web address:
The information on this web
site
gave me everything I needed and
confirmed the reality and “best kept secret” that
the main internal
parts used in a standard Dana 44, carrier as well as ring and pinion,
can easily be used in a Salisbury differential providing you get the
correct bearings, seals and other small parts. In many ways, the
Salisbury differential and the Dana 44 can be compared to the Ford 302
and the Ford 289, almost the same, but there are a few differences that
need to be addressed when interchanging parts.
In the case of
the
differential rebuild
for my unit, I wanted to replace the Salisbury open carrier with an
Auburn Gear pro series powerlock differential, but still retain the
original Salisbury ring and pinion due to the 3.54:1 gearing.
I
am a competent mechanic and have the tools and basic skills to tackle
many types of rebuilds, however,
having never worked with a Dana 44 or
Salisbury type differential, I did farm out the rebuild of this
unit. NOTE if you have
never rebuilt a rear end or similar
part
such as a transmission, I do not recommend starting with this
unit.
The Auburn Gear Pro
Series
limited-slip carrier
Fully rebuiltSalisbury differential
To save labor
costs, prior to farming
out the rebuild, I did all the legwork on getting the correct parts and
pieces for a rebuild kit and brought them in to the rebuilder with the
differential. I also provided the rebuilder with a copy of the Jaguar
shop manual information pertaining to the differential unit.
You
can use Dana 44 gears, however, if you use them with the carrier from
the Salisbury differential, the bolt holes on the carrier for attaching
it to the ring gear will need to be sleeved or shoulder bolts will need
to be used because the holes in the Salisbury carrier are 7/16" and the
holes on the Dana 44 ring gears are 3/8". Since I chose to
replace the Salisbury carrier with an Auburn Gear power lock
differential, but still use the original Salisbury ring and pinion, the
holes on my Auburn Gear carrier had to be punched out to
7/16". NOTE when ordering a Dana 44 carrier,
make sure you get the correct
spline count. The Salisbury differential has a spline count
of
19, but the Dana 44 comes in both 19 and 30 spline. Also,
depending on the ring and pinion ratio you choose to use, there are two
different configurations of carriers available. In other
words,
one carrier configuration is used for ratios up to 3.73:1 and a
different carrier configuration is used for ratios of 3.92:1 and above.
NOTE 04/09/10
It was recently brought to my attention by Sedat Yalcin that the above
information only applies to Dana 44 carriers. If you are
using the original Jaguar carrier you need to be aware of three
different carriers. The 2.88:1 carrier will only work with
2.88:1 ring and pinion. If you have a 2.88:1 carrier and
want a lower ratio you must change the carrier or buy a custom "THICK"
gear. After getting this information I confirmed it by contacting
Mike at CWI
and he added that Jaguar made there break between low and
midrange ratio at 3.54:1 and 3.76:1. The important thing to keep
in mind when deciding weather you need the parts set up for high
or low ratios
(excluding
the 2.88:1)
is not weather the carrier is Jaguar or Dana 44 but weather the ring
and pinion are Jaguar or Dana 44. If the ring and pinion is
Jaguar, regardless of weather the carrier is Jaguar or Dana the
break in ratios is between 3.54:1 and 3.76:1. But in reverse if
the ring and pinion is Dana, regardless of weather the carrier is
Jaguar or Dana the break in ratios is between 3.73:1 and 3.92:1.
The carrier
bearings are another one of
the things different between the two types of differential.
Both
use the same bearing race, but the I.D. of the bearings is different to
accommodate the different sized bearing mounting locations on the Dana
44 or Salisbury carriers respectively. Pinion bearings are also
different depending on whether you choose to use the Salisbury or Dana
44 ring and pinion. NOTE you must use
matched ring and pinion
sets, in other words, do not try and use a Dana 44 ring gear with the
Salisbury pinion gear or vice versa.
A list of part numbers
for a
full Dana 44 rebuild, a full Salisbury rebuild and a combo rebuild are
listed below. NOTE the Dana 44
#s are in relation to
installing
Dana 44 parts on the Salisbury differential and may or may not apply to
an actual Dana 44. I ordered most
of my parts from Reider
Racing,
because, after much research, they had the best prices but most
importantly they were extremely helpful when I talked to them on the
phone. http://www.reiderracing.com/ If you use Dana 44 ring
and
pinion, your pinion bearings will be different from the Salisbury
pinion bearings. Also, the original Salisbury input flange that bolts
up to the drive line yoke will not fit on the Dana 44 pinion gear, and
a Dana 44 output yoke will be needed.
Make sure you
think through which way
you want to go. By upgrading everything to Dana 44, you make
things simpler for future repairs, however, a full rebuild is required
and all the parts can be expensive. Also, if you retain the
Salisbury ring and pinion but upgrade to a Dana 44 carrier, note that
once the holes are punched out in the carrier, sleeving them to later
accommodate a Dana 44 ring and pinion set may be difficult and time
consuming.
Differential
rebuild part numbers:
Part
Salisbury
Dana 44 Salisbury
R&P
All Dana
44
Carrier
Original
RR#
44D/LSAL19
RR#
44D/LSAL19
Rebuild
kit
jag/mkit
RR#
jag/mkit
RR#
JAG/MOKIT
Carrier
bearings
25577
25590
25590
Carrier
races
25523
25523
25523
Pinion
bearings
inner
Hm89446
Hm89446
31594
Pinion
races inner
Hm89410
Hm89410
31520
Pinion
bearings
outer
M88043
M88043
M88040
Pinion
races outer
M88010
M88010
M88010
Crush
sleeve
CWI
N/A
N/A
Pinion
seal
2HA019
2HA019
2HA019
Output
yoke
N/A
N/A
S#
2-4-8091X
Output
flange
original
original
N/A
Ring
&
Pinion
original
original
44D/354
RR# =
Reider Racing part #
S# = Spicer part #
CWI = Concourse West Industries
When I got the
rebuilt unit back from
the rebuilder, he told me the rebuild was easy and that there were no
problems setting it up. The unit needed a fresh
coat of
paint and once I did that it was ready for use with the exception of
needing the drive shafts rebuilt and installed which was the next task
in the rebuild process.
The
good news and
the bad news
about drive shafts:
Jaguar produced
two different styles of
drive shafts on the XJ series cars. The series I Jaguar
1969-1973
uses a ball bearing on the drive shaft. These drive shaft
bearings are not made any more so replacing them is not an
option. The good news is that since the weight of the vehicle
is
not on the shaft bearings as it is on the wheel bearings, there is
little to no pressure on them so, as long as the differential is
properly maintained, the bearings can last for hundreds of thousands of
miles. The drive shafts are very easy to disassemble so that
the
bearings can be inspected and so that the seals can be replaced. Keep
in mind that trying to replace the drive shaft seals after the unit has
been installed in your car will be a major undertaking since getting to
them requires removing the unit from the car and taking much of it
apart, so I recommend replacing the seals before the unit is ever
installed in the car. In 74, Jaguar upgraded to a double
taper
bearing. This is a much stronger design, however, they are
set up
with a crush sleeve between the bearings to properly set the bearing
preload. This means that rebuilding them is a little more
challenging. Since the early type bearings are no longer
being
made, the only option, if you want new bearings, is to replace the
entire drive shaft by scavenging a set from a newer series II or III
Jaguar.
The differential I
am using came from a
72 XJ6, so it came with the ball bearing type drive shafts. I
purchased a set of series III drive shafts from David Boger at EveryDay
XJ with the intent to “upgrade”. Since I
already had the seals I
needed to rebuild the older drive shafts and the bearings seemed to be
in good shape, I decided to set the newer drive shafts on a shelf and
run the original ones that came with my
differential.
Rebuilding these early drive shafts is relatively simple. The
first thing I had to do was bend down the retaining tab on the washer
under the nut so that I could remove the retaining nut. Not
having a wrench large enough to fit on the retaining nut, I found the
easiest way to remove it was to place the drive shaft upside-down in my
vise with the retaining nut in its jaws and then place a steel rod
through the drive shaft studs and use the steel to turn the drive
shafts. Once the nut was free, I set the entire drive shaft
in a
tub and began to remove the bearing parts. Each bearing comes
completely apart and the balls come loose from the race and the bearing
cage, so the tub is there to catch the steel balls should things fall
apart. The individual bearings need to be inspected for flat
spots or wear rings, also the bearing retainers need to be inspected
for cracks.
By holding the drive shaft nut in my vise I was able to remove the nut
Drive Shaft broken down into individual parts
I painted the caliper brackets making sure mateing surfaces were not
painted
Once the bearing
is off, the caliper
bracket
was removed from the drive shaft and I had access to the seal in the
caliper bracket, which I drove out with a punch. From there the parts
were cleaned and painted and the bearings were reassembled. Sometimes
getting the balls back in the bearing retainer and then getting the
bearing retainer back in the race can be a challenge but by adding a
dob of grease to each ball as you put stuff back together it will act
kind of like a temporary glue and make the process much easier. From
there the process was the same as disassembly only in
reverse. I
installed a new seal into the caliper bracket, which was then installed
on the drive shaft. I then reinstalled the bearings, followed
by
the locking ring and the nut. As I was tightening the nut, I wanted to
make sure I torqued it to factory specs. Unfortunately, the
length of the axle prohibits you from fitting a socket over the nut and
consequently makes using the torque wrench a problem. To
overcome
this I placed the drive shaft in my vise as I had done to remove the
retaining nut and placed (Homemade Tool #5) over two of the drive shaft
studs. This tool is simply a piece of scrap steel with two
holes
drilled out for the studs and a lugnut welded to the middle.
With
the tool installed, I was then able to put a socket on the lugnut and
use my torque wrench to correctly tighten the drive shaft retaining
nut. Once things were torqued to factory specs, I bent a tab
up
on the locking ring to secure the nut.
Caliper bracket with seal installed
Homemade Tool #5 on the drive shaft
Torqued the nut to spec
I bent up the locking tab to hold the nut in place
This is the fully reassembled drive shaft
Installing
the
drive shafts into
the differential:
Prior to
installing the drive shafts,
the o-ring seals need to be examined. In the case of the 74
and
up drive shafts, the o-rings are available. They fit onto the
body of the caliper bracket and can be easily replaced. On
the
69-73 units, the o-rings are inside a grove in the differential
housing. These o-rings are no longer being made and the
original
ones will need to be “revitalized” and extra
precautions will need to
be taken to insure there are no leaks. To revitalize the
o-rings,
I soaked them in PineSol. Believe it or not, this is a really
good way to soften old rubber and I have used it many times on rubber
in far worse shape than that of these o-rings. Even with the
o-ring “revitalized”, I still wanted to make sure
things sealed
properly so, just prior to the final install of the drive shafts, I put
a thin layer of RTV around the base of caliper bracket where it meets
the differential housing.
There are shims
that need to be placed
between the caliper bracket of the drive shaft and the differential
housing and, when the differential was originally disassembled, the
number of shims/thickness should have been noted so that that they can
be put back in their original position. I failed to do this
during disassembly so, to determine the thickness, I installed the
drive shafts without the shims and hand tightened all 5 bolts on the
caliper brackets. I then used a feeler gauge to find out what
thickness was required to go between the housing and the
flange.
Now knowing the thickness needed, I used my digital calipers to measure
the shims and stack together enough to achieve the correct
thickness. The shims and drive shafts were then installed on
the
differential and the bolts were torqued down.
Rebuilding
the hubs: When
I pulled my hubs apart, I thought about polishing up the hubs to make
for a nice finish. After several hours on one hub with little
to
show for it, I decided it was more labor than I had time for.
A
trip to the powder coater was the next best solution and the results
are beautiful. When it comes to rebuilding the hubs, you need
to
keep in mind that there are lots of little pieces in the hubs,
especially on the bottom where the lower control arms connect to the
hub as you can see in the pictures on page II from when I tore them
down. All these little pieces are there for the main purpose
of
properly setting the preload on the tapered roller bearings there in
the lower part of the hub. Tapered bearing always need to be
set
up correctly with a specific amount of preload since the bearings will
loosen up with use, but too much preload and the bearing will bind in
the race and, with use, overheat and fail. If
enough
preload is not put on the bearings, they will not be held in the
correct position in their corresponding races and will wear out
prematurely. The window for correctly setting the preload is small, as
in thousands of an inch, and for this reason many suggest that you have
the hubs rebuilt by a professional. With a good shop manual
and
some special measuring tools, someone with a little experience setting
up tapered bearings can set up the bearings on the lower part of the
hub themselves, but this is not a task for a novice. There
is,
however, another option. The rebuild kit I purchased from CWI came with
UHMW bushings that replace all the parts in the lower section of the
hub, including the bearings. The beauty of this set up is all
you
need to do is install the bushings and you are done. The
bushings
will last as long, if not longer, than the bearings and don’t
need any
maintenance or grease. To install my bushings, I inserted
them
into the hub as far as I could by hand and then used a C-clamp to press
them in the rest of the way. Once they were in, I took a
small
hammer and tapped them lightly, just to make sure they were fully
seated. With the bushings in, I turned my attention to the
stub
axle bearings and seals.
CWI Rebuild Kit
Bushings & hub prior to install
I pressed the bushings in to the hub
The
first step in setting up the stub axle bearings was to install the
bearing races. The two bearings in each hub are different
sizes
so knowing which bearing goes where is fairly
straightforward.
The races are installed like any other. I always start mine
with
a rubber or plastic mallet. Once I have them started, I use a
small 3 oz hammer and a brass punch to slowly drive the races into the
hubs. NOTE the hub is aluminum which is
even softer than the steel
races and brass punch so be careful to slowly drive the races in,
moving the punch all around the top edge of the race to keep the race
even as it goes in and make sure the brass punch is on the race and not
any part of the aluminum when you strike it with the hammer.
It
is also important to make sure the hammer blows are light.
Tapping in the races, when done correctly, should take many hammer taps
and some time. When installing a race it is good to use your
ears
to help you know when the race is seated properly. The sound
of
the hammer blows will change from a thud to more of a ringing sound
when the race and the hub body are in full contact. With the
races installed the outer grease seal can be installed. I was able to
press mine in with my fingers. NOTE the outer seal can be
installed into the hub but the inner seal cannot be installed until the
wheel flange and bearings have been installed.
Race just prior to install
I used a brass punch to install the race
Seal can be installed after the race
The
wheel flanges on my unit were basically the only external parts that I
did not powder coat or paint. Powder coating or painting can
distort and/or flake off when used between surfaces held together with
torqued fasteners such as the wheel-to-wheel flange
connection.
As the coating compresses or flakes off, this can cause the tension
holding the two surfaces together to decrease and cause the torqued
fasteners to loosen. Not being able to use paint or powder
coat
the steel is a problem, as the wheel flange will rust. I
chose to
deal with this situation in the same way Jaguar did and that is to use
black oxide to coat the wheel flanges. This coating adheres
to
the steel at the molecular level and is only a few molecules
thick. Since the compound does not corrode, it makes a nice
barrier between the steel and the elements. To apply the
black
oxide, I bought a kit from Caswell.
Caswell Black Oxide Kit
The
directions that came with the Caswell kit were very easy to
follow. As directed, I made sure the parts were completely
clean
and free of all rust and oils. I then mixed the black oxide
chemicals with distilled water in the ratio prescribed by the
directions. The flanges were then dipped and left to soak for
about 10 minutes. During the soaking time, I moved the parts
around in the solution to eliminate any bubbles that had formed on the
hubs. Once the parts were completely blackened, I removed them from the
solution, rinsed them off and covered them with the sealing oil
provided with the kit
Prepped wheel flanges
Wheel flange soaking in solution
Wheel flange after being treated
With
the wheel flanges protected, I pressed the seal plate onto the flange
and then after thoroughly packing the bearing with grease, I pressed it
on as well. It is important to make sure the seal plate is
installed between the bearing and the flange, as it is the only thing
that rides up against the rubber grease seal. With the parts
pressed on the flange, I inserted it into the hub and spun the flange
to properly seat the bearings. I then pressed the inner
bearing,
which had also been thoroughly packed with grease, onto the inner shaft
of the wheel flange. As it was being pressed on, I rotated
the
hub body back and forth in an attempt to make sure the bearing was not
too tight, in other words with it installed you want there to be a
little play between the wheel flange and the hub. When I first pressed
the inner bearings onto one of my hubs, I pressed it a little too far
and had to back the bearing off. To do this, I simply placed
the
hub in my lap between my legs and used a large punch and a light hammer
and tapped on the inside end of the flange, driving the flange out of
the hub just enough to loosen up the bearings.Once the inner bearing
was installed, I then pressed in the inner seal with my fingers.
I pressed the wheel flange on the seal plate
Wheel flange with seal plate pressed in to position
The bearing was pressed on after the seal plate
With the other bearing and seal plate installed the bearing was packed
with grease and inserted in to the hub
With the wheel flange in the hub the inner bearing was pressed on
to the flange
I am
about to cover one of the most important steps of rebuilding the hub,
which involves correctly shimming the stub axles, but before I do, I
want to address a potential issue that I learned about that deals with
the possible failure of the stub axles. I found this
information
on Jag Lovers Forum and it turns out that, in more than one case, the
nose of some stub axles have sheared off, allowing the stub axle to
separate from the hub. Since the half shaft and stub axle
serve
as the UCA, if the stub axle were to separate from the hub, the hub
would no longer be held in two places and the wheel will probably no
longer stay perpendicular to the road. If this were to happen
while driving the car, the results could be catastrophic.
Alarmed
by this possibility, I began to extensively research this issue and
learned several things.
Summation
of
problem factors
and causes:
1.
The
sharp cut of the threads creates a
natural
stress point.
2.
The sudden increase in diameter from
threaded to
splined section increases shear forces at the base of the threads.
3.
Failure to correctly assemble the hub
WILL
increase the chance of sheering of the threaded end.
4.
Unknown past damage to the hub parts,
such as that
caused by an accident, will also increase the chance of sheering of the
threaded end.
5.
Older parts are made of mildly lesser
materials
so, in theory, a stub axle from a newer IRS unit should be stronger
than that of parts from an older IRS unit.
6.
Lack of routine maintenance
significantly
increases risk.
Solutions:
1.
To
insure that you have a quality used
stub axle,
have the base of the treads magnofluxed to detect existing micro
cracks, or at least use a crack testing solution. It cost me
$20.00 to have a local machine shop test my stub axles. This
is
cheap insurance to insure the parts I am using will function for
thousands of miles to come.
2.
ASSEMBLE THE UNITS CORRECTLY!! My
research found
this to be the most important factor in dealing with this issue.
I. Use
locktite !!
II. Measure
and shim the stub axle for
correct
end-float
III. Torque down castle nut to factory
specs
IV. Make sure the stub axle does not
bottom out on
the washer and castle nut
3.
Routine maintenance, I was amazed when
I first
looked at the maintenance schedule of the Jaguar IRS unit and how much
needs to be checked on a mildly regular basis (every 6000 to 10,000
miles depending on the parts).
4. In
relation to point 3, if the
bearings in the hub
are worn out and the shaft has too much end-float, the side-to-side
motion will work harden the threaded base on the stub axle, causing it
to crystallize and increasing the chance it will sheer off.
5. Be
one with the car. Be
aware of what the
car is doing, how it is handling, and how it sounds. If
something
changes, find out why.
6. Cutting
a small rounded stress
reliever (by a
qualified machinist) especially in relation to the sharp grooves at the
base of the threads may be a viable preventive solution. I, however,
chose not to do this as I knew that the stub axles I was using
didn’t
have any cracks and that the hubs would be set up correctly.
7. Newer
parts from say a series III
Jaguar, both hub
and stub axle are more likely to be stronger than that of the
corresponding parts from a series I Jaguar.
8. Do
not abuse the suspension.
If you drive
hard and fast over rough roads all the time, then know the life of the
parts will be reduced and routing maintenance needs to be increased.
I believe in the
concept of knowing all
the facts so as to make an educated, informed decision, and with that
in mind, I wanted to address the potential issue mentioned
above.
I also wanted to use this information to stress the importance of
correctly setting up the hubs. Keep in mind that just because there is
a chance this could happen, it is not likely that it will, especially
if the solutions above are heeded. Lets face it, the side of
the
road is not littered with Jaguars that have sheared off their stub axle
threads, so the actual extent of this issue is minimal under NORMAL
conditions and, even though the Jaguar IRS system may have room for
improvement, it has proven itself reliable when maintained
properly.
When installing
the stub axles into the
hub, the tapered bearings need the correct amount of preload or, as the
Jaguar shop manual refers to it, the correct “end
float”. To
properly set the end float a shim of the correct thickness needs to be
placed between the bearing seal plate and the inside end of the wheel
flange. The brass ring that came with the hub should be
perfect,
however, you cannot assume that it is correct and measurements must be
taken to insure that everything is set up correctly. A Jaguar
shop manual gives complete details on setting the end float but also
suggests that you use a special tool. Not having the special
tool, I set the end float using the stub axles in place of said tool.
To set the end
float, I installed the
original spacer ring and the seal plate and then slid the stub axle
into the hub and installed the corresponding washer and castle
nut. I torqued the nut down to 85 foot pounds, but as I did
it I
rotated the wheel flange to insure the bearings were seating correctly
and to make sure I was not over tightening them. NOTE if
the
shim
is too thin, the bearings will be too tight and the flange will become
difficult to turn. If the castle
nut can be torqued to the
proper
specs of 85 foot pounds without increasing the drag on the wheel
flange, a dial indicator can be used to measure end float.
When I set the end
float on my hubs, I
used an old brake drum to bolt the hub to. This gave me a
nice
solid base for the hub and provided me a large steel surface where I
could attach the magnetic base of my dial indicator. With the
dial indicator and base attached to the hub, I adjusted it so that the
indicator was centered over the u-joint. I then put a piece
of
steel over the end of the hub to give the dial something to gauge off
of and zeroed the gauge. Pry bars were then placed between
the
wheel flange and hub, and used to pry the hub upward. As the
hub
moved, the amount of movement registered on the indicator and was
noted. When doing these kinds of measurements, it is
important to
take many measurements and go with the most common result.
On one hub I was
getting .002”
movement, which is perfect as the shop manual says set end
float
between .001” and .003”, but on the other hub I was
getting .010” of
play. Too much play meant that the spacer was too thick, so I
removed the hub from the stand and took it apart so that I could get to
the shim. Once the shim was out, I used my digital calipers
to
measure the thickness in half a dozen locations on the ring.
This
spacer measured out at .127” to .129”, depending on
where I took the
measurements. I then took a piece of sand paper and laid it
out
on a flat piece of steel and worked the brass spacer back and forth in
an even circular motion, regularly changing my finger position on the
ring to insure even removal of material. I also
took
measurements every few minutes to insure that I did not remove too much
material. After about 15 minutes of working the piece I had
it
down to .124” all the way around the ring and even though I
had only
removed .005” and probably still needed to remove an
additional .003”
of material, I reinstalled the part into the hub and set back up the
dial indicator to take a second reading. This falls into the
concept of “measure twice cut once.” My
first measurements
indicated that I needed to remove .008” of material but I
wanted to
double check so that I did not accidentally remove too much material
and ruin the spacer. The second round of measurement
confirmed
that there was still .005” of end float, so I once again took
the hub
apart and continued working the spacer. I removed an
additional
.003” of material so that both hubs would be set up with the
same
amount of end float. I confirmed that the end float was
.002” by
reassembling everything and measuring a third time.
The dial indicator was centered over the stub axle
Prybars were used on the hub body to check end float
I worked the brass spacer on some sand paper covering a steel plate
I was lucky that
one of my spacers was
perfect and the other was too big. If either of the spacers
would
have been too thin, as the nut is torqued down, it would work like the
press, and push the inner bearing on to far. If
this
happens, you will not only need to back the inner bearing off of the
shaft of the wheel flange a little bit, but you will also need to use a
thicker spacer. The technique mentioned above that I used to back the
inner bearing off of the wheel flange when I pressed the bearing on to
far would work perfectly in this case.
Once I had the end
float set correctly
on both hubs, I dissembled each hub one last time. This was
done
for two reason, first I needed to remove the stub axle from the hub so
that I could attach the half shaft to the stub axle. The second reason
for disassembling the hub was so that I could
reassemble
the units using lock tight which, according to the shop manual, needs
to be applied to the splines of the stub axle to help secure it to the
wheel flange. Once both of these things were done and the
hubs
were reassembled, the hub and half shaft assembly was ready to be
attached to the full IRS assembly.
At this point
things can begin to come
together. The differential, LCAs, rotors, hubs, and half
shafts
can all be assembled into one unit. By putting everything
together you can begin to get a feel for the dimentions of the fully
assembled unit and plans for the fabrication that will need to be done
to install it in the car can begin to take place.
With everything
modified and assembled,
this project can now move to the final phase and be installed in the
car. In the next
article, page V,
we will look at the final install.
03/28/17, I wrote the above sentence over 6 years ago and not only is
this web series not complete but there is to muce info for page five to
be the "final" page.
BUT if you can't wait to see what a Jaguar IRS looks like
under a classic Mustang check out Mustang IRS
Success Stories
Disclaimer on Daze Tech Tips
I am not an expert
in this field. I have performed these modifications myself with very
good results. I am passing along restoration and
performance tips for the purpose of education. If you are
concerned about reliability or safety issues, I do not recommend that
you or any other individual perform these changes or attempt to modify
your cars from stock configuration except under your own
volition. I do not assume nor accept any liability for the
use of
this
information or how it is applied.